To start this off, I want to thank Rich at the Inventor’s Lab at Foothill College. I had the idea to get a 3D printed Vent gauge pod for my WRX, and he helped me along the process to make it happen. Check them out for your 3D printing needs!
So this install is quite straight forward, but it will take a good part of an afternoon to complete it.
You’ll need to either have the Oil pressure sensor relocation kit done, or install the sensor directly to the gallery plug underneath the alternator.
Things you’ll need:
- Soldering Iron
- Heat shrink
- Philips head screw driver
- Wire hanger
- Plastic Rivet Remover
- Plastic trim removal tool (or credit card)
- 3/16″ drill bit + drill
On to the install…..
The kit I bought didn’t come with any additional wire to attach the sensor to the gauge. So you’ll need to measure out some wire, long enough to go from the cabin, through the firewall, and into the engine bay. I measured out roughly 6 feet and soldered it to the green wire on the back of the gauge.
Remember the wiring layout for later.
Removing the vent. Quite straight forward. Remove the side panel on the dash and remove the screw that holds the vent in place. Then remove the instrument hood panel, by pulling it towards you while sitting in the drivers seat. Then pull the vent out.
Disassemble the vent, using a plastic trim removal tool or similar. Here’s with the factory vent.
Here’s with the 3D printed vent pod. Looks good already.
Make sure to drill a hole with a 3/16″ drill bit on the bottom part of the vent routing, so you can feed the wires towards the fuse box. I opted to shrink wrap the wiring that would be exposed to air and easy to see, to make it look cleaner.
Here’s a shot of the wiring through that hole…
Put the vent back. Wire up the gauge using the diagram provided. Since I wanted the gauge to be illuminated red during the day and night, I didn’t connect the white wire, and connected the orange wire to accessory power. Here’s my wiring diagram that I used.
- Red wire -> Back of the fuse box, connected to constant 12v.
- Black wire -> Used an eye crimp to mount it to the frame to be grounded.
- White wire -> Cut and taped. No need for it.
- Orange wire -> Cigar fuse, connected with an add-a-fuse.
- Green wire -> Through the firewall for sensor.
Now we’re almost done…
This is the most annoying part. You need to feed that long green wire that we soldered on earlier, through the firewall in order to get the signal from the oil pressure sensor. I opted to feed the wire through the rubber grommet behind the quarter panel, which requires disassembly of the side skirt, quarter panel vent, and the fender liner. It took me a few tries to get the wire fed through the grommet, but once you get it, it’s all downhill from here.
Here’s my oil pressure sensor, using the DIY oil pressure relocation kit. I used a female crimp to connect the sensor. Now don’t forget to ground the sensor.
And you’re done.